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Looking at my reflection, I can see myself in enormous golden pantaloons, perceptible just for my eyes. Kids play in a rock pool imitating mermaids, while nearby sits a speaking vegetable in a showcase, alongside a towering mound of cushions. It embodies the universe of Hans Christian Andersen (1805-1875), among the nineteenth-century's most beloved writers. I find myself in the city of Odense, located on Fyn in the southern region of the Danish kingdom, to explore the writer's timeless impact in his birthplace a century and a half after his passing, and to experience a handful of magical stories of my own.

The Museum: The Andersen Museum

The H.C. Andersen Museum is the local cultural center honoring the writer, including his first home. An expert notes that in previous versions of the museum there was scant attention on his fairytales. His personal history was studied, but The Ugly Duckling were nowhere to be found. For tourists who travel to the city looking for storytelling magic, it was not quite enough.

The redevelopment of Odense city centre, diverting a main thoroughfare, created the chance to rethink how the renowned native could be celebrated. A major architecture competition gave the architects from Japan Kengo Kuma and Associates the project, with the museum's fresh perspective at the heart of the design. The distinctive timber-clad museum with interlinked spiral spaces debuted to significant attention in 2021. “We have attempted to build a place where we avoid discussing Andersen, but we talk like him: with wit, satire and perspective,” explains the representative. The outdoor spaces take this approach: “This is a landscape for strollers and for colossal creatures, it's created to create a feeling of diminutiveness,” he explains, a goal achieved by clever planting, experimenting with height, proportion and multiple meandering routes in a unexpectedly limited space.

Andersen's Impact

Andersen wrote multiple personal accounts and often contradicted himself. The museum takes this approach to heart; typically the opinions of his friends or excerpts of correspondence are presented to subtly challenge the author’s own version of incidents. “The author is the guide, but his account isn't always accurate,” says the expert. The result is a fascinating whirlwind tour of his personal story and creations, thought processes and best-loved tales. This is stimulating and whimsical, for mature visitors and youngsters, with a extra underground make-believe land, the pretend town, for the youngest visitors.

Visiting the Town

Back in the actual city, the small city of the municipality is picturesque, with stone-paved roads and historic timber buildings colored in vibrant hues. The writer's influence is all around: the road indicators show the writer with his distinctive characteristic hat, brass footprints give a complimentary guided stroll, and there’s a art walk too. Annually in August this dedication culminates with the annual Andersen celebration, which honors the writer's impact through creativity, performance, drama and musical performances.

During my visit, the week-long event had hundreds of events, most of which were without charge. As I explore the city, I come across painted stilt-walkers, ghoulish monsters and an author double narrating adventures. I experience feminist spoken-word pieces and observe an amazing evening show featuring athletic artists lowering from the town hall and suspended from a crane. Future activities during the season are lectures, hands-on activities and, extending the oral history further than the writer, the city’s yearly enchantment celebration.

All good enchanted locations deserve a castle, and this region contains numerous historic homes and stately homes throughout the region

Cycling and Exploration

Like other Danish regions, bicycles are the perfect means to travel around in Odense and a “bicycle route” curves through the urban core. Departing from the local hotel, I cycle to the public waterside bathing area, then into the countryside for a loop around Stige Island, a tiny landmass connected by causeway to the mainland. City residents relax with food here after work, or appreciate a peaceful time angling, water sports or bathing.

Returning to town, I visit the themed restaurant, where the culinary offerings is based on Andersen themes and tales. The poem the national ode appears at the restaurant, and manager Nils Palmqvist shares excerpts, translated into English, as he presents each course. This is a practice repeated often in my time in Odense, the fynbo love a yarn and it feels as though storytelling is constantly on the menu here.

Historic Estate Tours

All good enchanted locations require a palace, and the island features numerous historic homes and manor houses around the area. Going on excursions from town, I explore Egeskov Palace, Europe’s best-preserved historic fortress. While much of it are available for tours, the castle is also the private residence of the aristocratic owners and his partner, the royal resident. I ponder if she can feel a small legume through a pile of {mattresses