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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate familiar award-winning venues. But, situated near the top among these food titans is a simple salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest place earning such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the cuisine, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.